NYFW SS15 high on sporty chic

In the ever changing fashion cycle, there comes a time when one trend becomes so big that it has far reaching impact on many seasons. For the past two to three seasons which include both spring and fall, one can easily see menswear runways eclipsed by the grip of futuristic athleticism. I never thought of pairing a windcheater on a business suit before Zegna and Dior Homme showcased it last season and so beautifully.

September, as they say, is the January in fashion. It’s time to rethink your closet choices and look ahead with new sartorial hopes. So guys, it’s time fall in love with sneakers all over again and upgrade your closet with some metallic neoprene parkas to club with your fave sweatshirt as you sweat it out at the gym. Most designers across the runways focused on pairing a pair of lace-up trainers with a formal double breasted suits.

Spring summer 2015 at NYC was full of black, white, grey and different tones of blue with a few exceptions like designer Richard Chai Love, who stunningly colour blocked a sheer yellow sporty jacket with a pair of blue shorts while Billy Reid played with vibrant blue floral prints. The overall focus was on relaxed tailoring aimed at a man who can be dapper but with a hint of sporty edge. Here’s the lowdown on some of the designers who stood out…

Billy Reid

Focus: Relaxed South American brunch chic

What stood out: The first look was a muted striped blazer layered over an abstract printed shirt and worn over a pair of striped trouser. Layering and relaxed tailoring were the key factors along with prints on shorts, shirts and trousers which were worn with espadrilles in the same tone. Oversized shirts, printed blazers and oversized bermudas emitted a relaxed brunch whiff.

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Bill

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Patrick Erwell

Focus: Interior design

What stood out: Minimalism and structure have always been integral parts of American menswear and these two were the key foci here. A pair of sharply cut trousers were paired with athletic outerwear. The show opened with a sheer raincoat paired with a pair of tailored trousers and monk strap shoes. Sweatshirts were clubbed with floral printed tops and metallic bombers were paired with track pants in the same tone. Metallic turquoise shorts and track pants infused electrifying energy into the show.

Patrick Erwell SS2015

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Libertine

Focus: Hipster cool

What stood out: Picture a sassy hipster hitting a sports club in a kitschy, embellished sweatshirt, clubbing it with a knee-length Bermuda shorts. Bold letterings, studs, florals were re-imagined on t-shirts and shorts and the looks were completed with vibrant striped socks and sneakers. The most striking look was a sweater and shirt combo which had boisterous appliqué. Aimed at a man who’s not scared of colour!

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Libertine2

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Ovadia & Sons

Focus: Athletic and street

What stood out: Clashing dapper dressing with futuristic athleticism, the show mixed the two key aesthetics beautifully. Double-breasted suits in linen and shantung silk were paired with sneakers. An array of of track pants, tees, bombers and trenches were served in a litany of fabrics like digital hounds tooth print, neoprene and patent leather. The trousers were cuffed at the hems and suits were layered with hooded parkas.

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Tim Coppens

Focus: Athleticism

What stood out: The show started with a monochrome palette – parkas, windcheaters, long overcoats with multi-pockets and zippers. Some of the models wore sheer tanks and t-shirts. Some pieces saw beautiful colour blocking of blue and coral and there were abstract digital prints too. Every look was finished off with sporty trainers.

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Paris menswear SS15 highlights

Sporty chic rules in spring summer 2015 shows

Sweatshirts layering the suits, pin-stripped suits worn with sporty trainers and basketball shorts have been eclipsing the runways of London, Milan and Paris homme shows in fall and spring 2014. And the sporty chic continues to dominate the SS15 too. The Paris menswear week radiated major artisanal influences – Louis Vuitton was inspired by the Jodhpur royalty, Dries Van Noten took the ballet active-wear route while at Dior homme, Kris Van Assche showcased arty, handwritten notes (sourced from Monsieur Dior’s archive) on separates and accessories.

Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent channelled his punk rockstar vibe with models wearing ponchos with drainpipes.

Dries Van Noten

Theme: Ballet

What was it about: Unitards and harnesses were the highlights of the show. Slouchy trousers and pajama-style dressing, one-shoulder waistcoat exuded an S&M vibe.

 

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Louis Vuitton

Theme: The Jodhpur royalty

What was it about: An all-fuchsia ensembles embellished with mirror work radiated a Rajputana vibe. Flight suits and military bomber jackets accessorised with nifty leather accessories and trunks made it a surreal treat for the eyes.

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Dior homme

Theme: Tradition

What was it about: Pin-stripped double-breasted suit, tuxedos in midnight blue and denim suits were the three key ensembles. Blue and yellow separates were stunningly colour-blocked and accessories like the bags had handwritten notes.

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Saint Laurent

Theme: Punk hipster

What was it about: Drainpipes, leather jackets, ponchos and embellished hats – were mixed together in ensembles radiating a Western cinema collage. No one does skinny better than Hedi Slimane and this time too he carved some distinctive looks accessorised with neck scarves.

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Balmain

Theme: 70s-era skiers

What was it about: Structured motocross jackets embellished with neon beads with almost a military-like precision has been the brand’s mainstay. Tight leather pants were paired with open-toe leather lace-ups. The pairing of a sweatshirt with a beaded jackets was simply stunning.

Balmain homme

Balmain homme

Balmain homme

Balmain homme

Balmain  homme

Balmain homme

Decoding the Dior Homme drama!

Easily one of the strongest shows from the recently concluded Paris Fashion Week, Dior Homme Summer 2015 collection married traditional sartorial codes with a whiff of refreshing modernity. Monsieur Christian Dior had once said, “Traditions have to be maintained so they can be passed on to future generations. In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation.”

This thought set the tone of the collection which saw some some artisanal prints, handwritten notes, powerful colour-blocked ensembles and sporty chic-inspired layering.

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Models cut a fine figure backstage

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Chic eyewear was one of the highlights of the Dior Homme show

“In this collection, the dialogue with Christian Dior himself continues,” shared Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme. “I was very inspired by a letter written by Mr Dior in the Fifties that I found in the archive; in it he talks about how vital it is to maintain traditions. I too feel very strongly about this and the text elements in the collection are taken directly from the letter. I wanted a sense of renewal and an idea of Christian Dior’s artistic milieu to come through as well as his love of formality and tradition – here the bourgeois meets the artist, but very much in the present day.  There is still the idea of the individual and human in this collection, together with the release and relaxation of getting away from it all, from the city to the sea.”

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‘The dandy businessman-meets-the-bohemian-artist’ was the vibe of the collection which gloried in opposites – the severity of a pin-stripped midnight blue was toned down by the vibrancy of a bright yellow and blue stripped cardigan. The lettering and pop prints on the brand’s classic shirts was one of the highlights of the show giving it a whimsical edge – the handwritten text was also seen on leather bags giving it a preppy-yet-artistic edge.

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As models swaggered on the ramp, the collection moved like a theatrical prose showing the traditional pinstripes in the beginning to the hand drawn heart at the end.

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The artisanal handwritten text on a handbag

The ensembles that stood out:

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A six-button peacoat which was paired with a stripped blue and grey cardigan was one of the strongest looks

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A toggle coat paired with a pair of faded denims stood out

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A denim suit worn with a pair of sporty trainers

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Breaking the cliches of a conventional business wardrobe, the collection infused a freshness with interesting use of bold colours in separates and motifs on accessories like bags and shoes. Fashion is moving art and it refuses to be defined in limited terms!

Out-tuxed by Dior dandies!

One can’t imagine a Cannes Red Carpet without a sea of dapper tuxedos. There was a time when tuxedos would only be in the tones of gleaming midnight black but today one sees other colours like midnight blue too. Peak lapels, one-button and shawl collars – tuxedos in myriad styles wreak a sartorial assault which equals the intrigue created by frothy, voluminous ballgowns. There’s nothing more chic than a man dressed in a well-cut, form flattering tuxedo and a nifty bow-tie.

Cannes 2014 Red Carpet was eclipsed by dandies from Hollywood’s swish set clad in ultra-chic Dior Homme tuxedos. Here are some snapshots of some of the world’s most photographed and celebrated men in Dior Homme tuxedos who out-tuxed everyone else.

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ROBERT PATTINSON

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DJIMON HOUNSOU

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MADS MIKKELSEN

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KELLAN LUTZ

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LOGAN LERMAN

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GAEL GARCIA BERNAL

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PIERRE NINEY

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LAMBERT WILSON

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RADU MIHAILEANU

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JÉRÉMIE RÉNIER

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BENJAMIN BIOLAY

Five chic Prefall accessories I’m digging!

Today men’s fashion is more about expressing who you are and how you are feeling on a particular day than about following trends or magazine editorials. In the last few seasons, colours like canary yellow have become accepted fall colours and it’s no longer about cloaking yourself in black and grey. Accessories like clothes play a key role in defining the kind of dresser you are – Are you a hipster dandy? Are you a preppy laced with a sartorial edge or just a nomadic bohemian in a global village?

Gucci‘s Prefall accessories this season are accentuated with an urbane, contemporary style, splash of bold colours and of course, the brand’s iconic craftsmanship. Here are my fave picks from this dapper collection:

Belt it with elan

This tanned beauty will elevate a formal look to another level and also complement a diverse panoply of ensembles. Channel your inner dandy and jazz up any look with this nifty belt – whether you want to dress up or dress down.

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Marrying comfort with a modern aesthetic 

Who’s not familiar with the brand’s horsebit loafer? This stunning pair makes you breeze from a day look to an evening of high drama and high-octane glam slam.

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Silk scarf

This luscious burnt orange, printed silk scarf is your ultimate essential if you are planning a European summer. Tie it under a cardigan and radiate your confidence. Real men aren’t afraid of colours!

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Retro redux

These Retro-style sunglasses take us to 60’s glamour. They suit most face types and go with diverse looks. Also, they are timeless and classic.

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Luxe-lit case

This bright yellow soft leather case will beautifully offset your all-grey pin-striped suit and also colour-block a navy blue ensemble. Dump all your travelling gadgets, work essentials and files in it.

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Season’s chicest accessories

Accessories play a major role in elevating a man’s ensemble to another level. A bag you carry says a lot about where you come from and where you’re headed in life. It reflects your personality and also personal style. Here are some of my picks from Dior homme accessories line.

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BORDEAUX GRAINED CALFSKIN BRIEFCASE: For the daring dandy who’s not shy of wearing colour. This beauty will complement any ensemble. 

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PRUSSIAN BLUE TAURILLON ORGANIZER WITH BORDEAUX RUBBER-FINISH METAL ‘CD': It marries utility and high fashion. For the man who enjoys the finest things in life. 

 

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PRUSSIAN BLUE AND BORDEAUX REVERSIBLE GRAINED CALFSKIN BELT: For today’s fashion forward man who enjoys having fun with fashion and indulges in stylish accessories. 

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BEIGE, BLUE AND ORANGE SUEDE, PATENT LEATHER AND CANVAS SNEAKER: For the fitness conscious gym junkie who works out in style.  

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SUNGLASSES, RECTANGULAR FRAME IN ULTRA-FINE CRYSTAL GRAY ACETATE, ADVANCED JAPANESE TECHNIQUE: Your perfect summer companion – will take you from a beach to a brunch. 

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SCAR CUFFLINKS, STERLING SILVER AND MAT PRUSSIAN BLUE LACQUER: For the night of high drama. These will accentuate the sartorial appeal of your tuxedo. 

Utilitarian chic

Theorem by Nitin Chawla summer resort 2014 showcased at Lakme Fashion Week stood out because of the fact that the designer married style with functionality. Internationally, Balmain, Isabel Marant and Alexander Wang have done fall pieces which are workwear-inspired. Balmain’s reinvention of the safari jacket being one of the prominent examples. Fashion, as they say, is a reflection of the times we live in and designers across the board have toyed with the idea of androgyny and married style with easy functionality. 

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Nitin used a lot of zippers and multi-pocket separates which added to the collection’s sporty appeal. 

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I particularly loved the use of dots, star prints. Bomber jackets with printed sleeves, shackets with contrasting sleeves, contrast bib shirts, printed double breasted overcoats with flaps, nautical stripped coats with zippers were some of the highlights of this line.  

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The woven floral two-button coats and double breasted suits should definitely be in every dandy’s summer closet.   

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