Menswear highlights from Lakme Fashion Week

Lakme Fashion Week saw some interesting menswear pieces which were fun, wearable and also innovative. Aren’t we all tired of seeing bandhgalas and double breasted suits on the ramp? Well, that sells but isn’t a platform like fashion week the ultimate place to look for a new, refreshing creative energy. Honestly, menswear space in India is untapped and there’s enough scope for the up and coming designers to find a footing. Even though the fraction of men who are willing to experiment with newer silhouettes, cuts and drapes may seem small, there’s definitely a new curiosity towards dressing up with a twist amongst men especially in the cities. Let’s check out which menswear shows rocked this time at LFW.

MOODY, BROODY, GRUNGE: Lalit Sengar 

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Designer Lalit Sengar’s line was inspired by Art Nouveau. Ornate motif, Art Deco references, camouflage and floral prints – formed the heart of this collection. It had a duality- it managed to looked country yet modern at the same time. Using textiles like cotton, Chanderi, linen with block prints, hand embroidery and screen prints and a palette of pastels like beige, ecru, grey and white; the line was a feast for the eyes.

We loved the fact that the inside of the jacket was as beautiful as the outside. Asymmetrical necklines, military style epaulets and the clever use of prints on the inside which just popped.   

Also, the show was stunningly styled – models wore gold jewellery on their faces and the bandage was used as footwear. 

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PREPPY WITH AN EDGE: Sanjay Hingu 

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Designer Sanjay Hingu has been making his presence felt in the menswear space for many seasons now. He took a break from LFW for a few seasons and made a comeback again with a smart, fun collection. 

The line titled, Men will be boys showed jackets with cheery, vibrant print on sleeves. We loved the giant bus image at the back on one of the pieces. Well-cut and tailored jackets have always been Sanjay’s forte and this time too his double and single breasted jackets were lean and short with two back vents and narrow lapels. We loved summery blazers, a solo checked dungaree, floral collars and pockets flaps.

However, the choice of footwear was disappointing and also the frumpy bags and satchels, which the models carried didn’t really complement the great ensembles. 

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Real Men Wear Metallics: Rajesh Pratap Singh

I have always been a fan of his country-inspired, minimal aesthetic. It’s hard not to fall in love with his pristine white, pin-tucked shirts which have become quite iconic in Indian fashion folklore. Having said that, let’s get back to his finale show at LFW which was quite experimental. When I saw the show, the metallic fabric used in the jackets looked lamé but when I read the PR release, it turned out that they were woven in silver, stainless steel, paper, aluminium, hand woven and spun khadi, silk and linen.

The blouson with attached scarf worn as a hoodie on a suit stoof out. Loved the metallic ribbed jackets, bermudas and trousers. 

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Most Stylish men at New York Fashion Week

Besides the million dollar looks on the ramp, I’m always curious to see what the front row looks like. A row full of shiny patent leather boots all forming a gleaming and an undulating silhouette together is truly a vision.

My fave looks from the recently concluded NYFW Fall 2014-15. (Photos courtesy: style.com)

Blogger Bryan Boy cuts a fine figure in an overcoat with a shearling collar at the Marc Jacobs show. He pairs a jumper with a pair of leather shorts and adds gum boots for the great finish.

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Justin O’Shea, Buying Director of the luxury online store @mytheresa_com looks dapper in a three piece midnight black look. The tanned honey shearling detail on the overcoat collar adds drama to the ensemble. The jewelled-toned blue tie works wonder too. The tattoos simply spell hipster. Tres chic!

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Ken Downing fashion director and senior vice president of Neiman Marcus stores too opts for an all black look. The black cardigan worn over the dress shirt spells classic preppy. The coat hanging on the shoulder and long neck scarves says – “relaxed glamour”.

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Lorenzo Martone beautifully layers a coral jacket with a shearling overcoat at the Marc Jacobs show. The textured voluminous hair and the beard add more character to the whole look.

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The Grammys Red Carpet Highlights

 

The Daft Punk dudes came with their now iconic helmets on! A helmet paired with a tux is a deadly combo for The Grammys Red Carpet.

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Keith Urban channelled his inner cool dude by layering a simple t-shirt with a shawl collar evening jacket. He completed his look with a pair of skinny denims and suede shoes.

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Nile Rodgers cut a dash by pairing his midnight blue tuxedo with a beret and a spiffy pair of patent leather lace-ups.

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My fave look was that of Mikky Ekko who wore a midnight blue suit and a matching kilt which was fastened by a leather belt. He wore a pair of cropped trousers and double buckle monk strap shoes for the great finish.

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Tomo Milicevic, Shannon Leto and Jared Leto channeled a polished hipster vibe. Leto opted for an embellished collar blazer, Shannon paired the basic white tee and blue denim combo with a gold blazer while Tomo wore a long top with an asymmetrical hemline and he completed his look with a pair of cropped trousers and two toned lace-ups.

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Gavin DeGraw wore a three-piece suit which he paired with two-toned white Oxford shoes and a trilby.

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John legend wore a one-button midnight blue Gucci tux and completed his look with a bow-tie,    

 

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Ryan Lewis opted for a houndstooth print suit while Macklemore opted for a jewel-toned blue velvet suit which he paired with gold tasselled loafers.

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Meet the Parisian homme

Some of coolest looks from the menswear winter showcase in Paris!

Saint Laurent
Look: Polished hipster
Highlights: Sequinned overcoats accessorised with tartan scarves, leopard print leather jackets and trainers, super skinny drain pipe pants.

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Paul Smith
Inspiration: Jim Morrison
Highlights: Sequinned accents on separates, pleated baggy trousers cuffed at the ankles, musical symbols on parkas and coats, richly printed peacoats and shoes.

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Lanvin
Thought: Digital
Highlights: Models sported messy fringes on foreheads, electric toned shoes and electric candy accents on shirt collars. Double-breasted suits and trench coats accessorised with ankle-grazing neck scarves.

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The Dior Dandy

Kris Van Assche has been eclipsing the menswear high fashion space for many seasons now. This time the Creative Director of Dior Homme, inculcated some of the iconic references from Monsieur Dior’s epochal archive and injected it with his modernity day aesthetic for his ultra-chic winter 2014-15 presentation. As a phalanx of Dior men swaggered down the runway in a panoply of double-breasted pin-stripped suits which were often dotted and accented with abstract rose motifs, they wreaked a multi-sensory impact. 

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Today’s evolved Dior man is someone who wears a three-piece pin-stripped suit with a pair of triple-buckled shoes. The seriousness of the three-button (sometimes four-button) suits with skinny lapels was offset by the playfulnness of the polka dots present on shoes, handbags and satchels. Other motifs like the star, the heart and the coin made the collection fun and refreshingly modern.

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The beautifully cut and slickly crafted suits were accessorised with masculine jewellery such as tie pins and white metal brooches thereby exuding a sporty dandyness. 

The layering of some of the key suits with denim vests and leather jackets with shearling collar was quite interesting channeling a luxe masculine sensuality. Some suit jackets came in multi-pockets making them more military and utilitarian. Two major ensembles which stood out: a canary yellow leather over coat, paired with denims and trainers and a nylon Khaki parka layered with a pin-stripped suit.  

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“I wanted it all to be about the individual again, a feeling of uniqueness and what luxury is really about.” said Kris Van Assche of the collection.

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Artisanal Burberry

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Before the Burberry show at London Collections: Men (or LCM) started, I was expecting Christopher Bailey’s men to strut in crisp shirts, quilted leather jackets and double breasted trench coats but all fashion lovers were pleasantly surprised to see models in string vests layered by printed jackets and accessorised with vibrant neck scarves. What struck me most was the lady-like knot and styling of the scarves which looked so visually sumptuous on skinny men with hairless chests. Fall leaf motifs, artisanal handbags, slim tailored trousers and two-toned Oxfords completed the look which was seemingly inspired by the early 20th century English artists.

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‘Luxe bohemian’ vibe was the strongest vibe of the whole show with brand’s over coats in signature plaid. Next on my wishlist are the vibrant scarves and a beige and black floral printed jacket worn by the second last model towards the end of the show (image below).

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Revisiting Noir

 Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men 
 
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A broody, moody, melancholic and subversive themed-fashion has been an integral part of the brand Alexander McQueen’s DNA. When you think of its menswear, two thinks come to mind – Goth inspired hair and kilts. And these two formed the heart of Sarah Burton’s line for London Collections: Men showing. A phalanx of McQueen men swaggered wearing double breasted plaid over coats and suits. These rebellious dandies accessorised their hair with crow feathers which sometimes covered their eyes and reach their perfectly chiselled cheek bones. The show was staged in the theme appropriate Welsh Chapel. The distinctive feel of the collection can be summed up into monochromes, double breasted tailoring with a few pieces in British plaid, tartans, blocks and knits in geometric shapes like rhombus. 

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The last few drool-worthy pieces clearly stood out thanks to the gold accents on the shirt collars and lapels – perhaps a hipster’s perfect bet for the night of Punk gala at Met.   

 

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