‘I’m a frustrated child from the seventies’

Made to Pleasure caught up with Emilio Pucci’s creative head – Peter Dundas at Vogue Dubai Fashion Experience.

Over sized aviators and an-all white dapper look has been her signature look. He represents the brand’s jet set lifestyle and enjoys dressing women in his va va voom creations. Over to the maverick…

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How do you interpret your person style?
I’m a frustrated child from the seventies. I wear white all the time.

How was it taking over a brand like Emilio Pucci which is steeped in heritage and history?
Six years ago, the perception about the brand was mainly psychedelic prints and 60’s jet set. It was daunting because you realise that the house is colossal – there was a mix of classical sculptures and paintings. It became overwhelming. That was the great starting point. Mr Pucci himself became a very visible brand ambassador for his house. You try it in your way.

What inspires you?
Travel inspires me a lot. I’m always on the go and it’s not hard to pick things as one goes along. I lived the Pucci lifestyle – hanging out with the girls and understanding what they enjoy. Pucci was the pioneer in the lifestyle brand. When you buy into a brand you are buying into a lifestyle. I have been surrounded by good looking celebs – all to thanks to Pucci. The house attracts a high profile following.

What was your first job?
I would make clothes for my sister as a young kid. I started very early making clothes. My very first job as a costume designer for a theatre in Paris. I was an assistant costume designer. I made a leap from theatre to the runway. After the play, I got a call from Jean Paul Gaultier’s assistant. Gaultier talks a lot and I couldn’t understand him but I kept nodding me head. Two days later, I was hired as his assistant. One thing he always came back to was skirts for men and he made it more approachable. After Gaultier, I went to Lacroix. I got a call from Cavalli. In fact, I had never thought of going to Italy before. It was a great success and it was like a finishing school for me.

How are French and Italian ateliers different?
I love working for both French and Italian houses. French have a subtle seductive approach while Italians are more impulsive. There’s a difference in the craftsmanship. I love working with French atelier – the inside of a garment is as beautiful as the outside. I also love working in Italy – all the chaos and despite being disorganised, they all have a nobility.

Did you face any disadvantages?
When I came on board at Pucci, there were disadvantages. People had preconceived notions. Every house should have women as the focus and women can’t be forgotten in the process. Prints ignite surprise and sensuality. I loved all those things and then I started hanging out with the Pucci woman. They are beautiful and I’m happy when they wear my clothes and even when she changes something. Prints have been the bread and butter of the house. I innovated prints and made them fresh and young. I find the answers at the back of my head. I introduced embroideries, patchwork, spirit of the graphics – dip dyeing them, making them large.

What’s the importance of archives?
I really make it a point of not being a slave to them. You have to personalise it. I recolour them and use them on different material. Going too much into archive can be daunting. I found a way of being respectfully disrespectful. There’s a joy of life which I share with house of Pucci but it’s also my job to change it. You may not like it sometime but it’s my job to do it. Working with Pucci’s family member (Laudomia Pucci) is a very privilege situation. I use it as a litmus paper and exchange the ideas with her – techniques etc. Today I use technology and engineered prints. I try to be impulsive in my inspiration – it can be a word or colour something which builds your attention. You work with the subconscious in a way. My first collection was really like that – when I started scuba diving in Maldives. Later I was building a house in Greece and it became a Greek collection. When you make women desirable, you impart confidence and strength to them. I’m quite instinctive in the way I work.

How do you see the future of the brand?
It’s difficult to project. Today Pucci is twice as big when I joined and I’m proud of that. It’s our duty to be the best as we can be.

Break the cliches of festive dressing

Menswear for festive occasions in India can be easily bracketed into the following categories: bandis, bandhgalas, sherwanis and kurtas with churidars. It’s sad that despite the recurring cycle of Indo western fusion season after season, which has been taking place over the last two decades, Indian menswear space throws very few options for the fashion forward man. Most guys end up looking like clones of one another – say colour blocking a sherwani with a contrasting stole or wearing a bandi with a vibrant pocket square and completing the look with a pair of jodhpur trousers. However, despite such limited options for experimentation still a lot can be done.

Try these looks:

1. Pair a bandi with your fave pair of denims or drainpipes and complete the look with open toe leather sandals. The look spells easy breezy and yet conveys that formal, dressy vibe.

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A look from Ashish N Soni

2. Pair a draped Kurta with a well tailored blazer or jacket and opt for voluminous pyjamas – the looks says festive but with a western twist. The drapes of the Kurta are offset by the structural shape of the blazer. Add your fav chronograph and a popping pocket square for that tinge of drama and you’ve got a winning combo.

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A draped look from Shantanu & Nikhil

3. Layering a denim shirt with a bandi jacket works well. Roll the sleeves up till the elbow and leave the first button of the bandi open. If you aren’t a fan of denim then opt for your fave chambray shirt. Complete the look with a pair of suede moccasins. Check this denim look from Rajesh Pratap Singh

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It’s gonna be a blue Spring Summer 2015

Wills India Fashion Week (WIFW) held in Delhi saw some very wearable, easy on the eye, pret menswear pieces.  
Rajesh Pratap Singh 
Inspiration: Selvedge denim
Highlights: Easily one of the most wearable collections at WIFW titled – Blue Blood brought back the selvedge denim made with pure indigo into mainstream fashion. The reclusive Mr Pratap kept the environmentalist impact of this offering in mind by using pure natural indigo and raw denim.
What we loved: The engineered shirt without an armhole was definitely the high point of the show. Hand and machine embroideries, chikan embroideries and the brand’s most identifiable insignia – the pintucks, patchwork jackets, polka appliques made it a treat for the eyes. Jackets, wide-legged trousers, shirts looked elegant on the kohl-eyed male models. Denim’s durability and toughness and its association with the working class was beautifully reflected in the line.
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Josh Goraya
Inspiration: Contemporary art and modern youth
Highlights: It’s difficult to come across chic-yet-practical ready-to-wear menswear in today’s Indian market filled with bandis and bandhgalas. Josh Goraya presented a crisp, clean collection accented with pop, vibrant accents like neon green.
What we loved: The collection titled Lucid Play showcased lightweight linens, cottons and georgettes. The linen bandis which came without any underlining are definitely on my wishlist – perfect for sultry Mumbai weather.
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Ashish N Soni
Inspiration: feathers
Highlights: The collection titled Plumage saw a panoply of prints – long feathers, downy feathers and wing feathers. The placement oriented prints on trousers, shirts and jackets added to the vibrancy of the layered ensembles.
What we loved: Jackets, double-breasted suits and bandis in a palette of white, teal and washed chambray were accented with feathers. Embellished sweatshirts and v-neck jumpers seem totally in sync with the currently trending sporty vibe.
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Reinterpreting biker grunge

Indian designers have time and again toyed with the idea of Indo-western fusion. Anamika Khanna’s sari pants, Tarun Tahiliani’s sari gowns come to mind. This time menswear specialist designer Arjun Khanna for his Lakme Fashion Week show married the biker jacket with the traditional bandhgala.
Yuvraj Singh at Arjun Khanna's show at LFW WF 2014
Freddy Daruwala at Arjun Khanna's show at LFW WF 2014
The ace couturier made a runway splash after a long time and teased our little sartorial hearts. As his brawny models came wearing biker jackets, structured trousers and helmets, the testosterone-heavy vibrations in the show area could be felt. Leather tassels, his trademark pipings, zippers and fringes – were the leitmotifs of the show. He amalgamated the bandhgala and bandis with the biker jackets exemplifying his push on tailoring. Separates had cheeky letterings like ‘Biker Butt’ and ‘Biker Bundi’ added a fun twist.
Cricketer Yuvraj Singh was the showstopper in an all white biker ensemble.
Yuvraj Singh and Arjun Khanna at LFW WF 2014
What we loved: A red and black quilted leather jacket with studs which spelt bad ass biker and punk rocker at the same time.
Arjun Khanna's show at LFW WF 2014Designer Arjun Khanna at LFW WF 2014Arjun Khanna at LFW WF 2014

NYFW SS15 high on sporty chic

In the ever changing fashion cycle, there comes a time when one trend becomes so big that it has far reaching impact on many seasons. For the past two to three seasons which include both spring and fall, one can easily see menswear runways eclipsed by the grip of futuristic athleticism. I never thought of pairing a windcheater on a business suit before Zegna and Dior Homme showcased it last season and so beautifully.

September, as they say, is the January in fashion. It’s time to rethink your closet choices and look ahead with new sartorial hopes. So guys, it’s time fall in love with sneakers all over again and upgrade your closet with some metallic neoprene parkas to club with your fave sweatshirt as you sweat it out at the gym. Most designers across the runways focused on pairing a pair of lace-up trainers with a formal double breasted suits.

Spring summer 2015 at NYC was full of black, white, grey and different tones of blue with a few exceptions like designer Richard Chai Love, who stunningly colour blocked a sheer yellow sporty jacket with a pair of blue shorts while Billy Reid played with vibrant blue floral prints. The overall focus was on relaxed tailoring aimed at a man who can be dapper but with a hint of sporty edge. Here’s the lowdown on some of the designers who stood out…

Billy Reid

Focus: Relaxed South American brunch chic

What stood out: The first look was a muted striped blazer layered over an abstract printed shirt and worn over a pair of striped trouser. Layering and relaxed tailoring were the key factors along with prints on shorts, shirts and trousers which were worn with espadrilles in the same tone. Oversized shirts, printed blazers and oversized bermudas emitted a relaxed brunch whiff.

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Patrick Erwell

Focus: Interior design

What stood out: Minimalism and structure have always been integral parts of American menswear and these two were the key foci here. A pair of sharply cut trousers were paired with athletic outerwear. The show opened with a sheer raincoat paired with a pair of tailored trousers and monk strap shoes. Sweatshirts were clubbed with floral printed tops and metallic bombers were paired with track pants in the same tone. Metallic turquoise shorts and track pants infused electrifying energy into the show.

Patrick Erwell SS2015

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Libertine

Focus: Hipster cool

What stood out: Picture a sassy hipster hitting a sports club in a kitschy, embellished sweatshirt, clubbing it with a knee-length Bermuda shorts. Bold letterings, studs, florals were re-imagined on t-shirts and shorts and the looks were completed with vibrant striped socks and sneakers. The most striking look was a sweater and shirt combo which had boisterous appliqué. Aimed at a man who’s not scared of colour!

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Ovadia & Sons

Focus: Athletic and street

What stood out: Clashing dapper dressing with futuristic athleticism, the show mixed the two key aesthetics beautifully. Double-breasted suits in linen and shantung silk were paired with sneakers. An array of of track pants, tees, bombers and trenches were served in a litany of fabrics like digital hounds tooth print, neoprene and patent leather. The trousers were cuffed at the hems and suits were layered with hooded parkas.

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Tim Coppens

Focus: Athleticism

What stood out: The show started with a monochrome palette – parkas, windcheaters, long overcoats with multi-pockets and zippers. Some of the models wore sheer tanks and t-shirts. Some pieces saw beautiful colour blocking of blue and coral and there were abstract digital prints too. Every look was finished off with sporty trainers.

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Paris menswear SS15 highlights

Sporty chic rules in spring summer 2015 shows

Sweatshirts layering the suits, pin-stripped suits worn with sporty trainers and basketball shorts have been eclipsing the runways of London, Milan and Paris homme shows in fall and spring 2014. And the sporty chic continues to dominate the SS15 too. The Paris menswear week radiated major artisanal influences – Louis Vuitton was inspired by the Jodhpur royalty, Dries Van Noten took the ballet active-wear route while at Dior homme, Kris Van Assche showcased arty, handwritten notes (sourced from Monsieur Dior’s archive) on separates and accessories.

Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent channelled his punk rockstar vibe with models wearing ponchos with drainpipes.

Dries Van Noten

Theme: Ballet

What was it about: Unitards and harnesses were the highlights of the show. Slouchy trousers and pajama-style dressing, one-shoulder waistcoat exuded an S&M vibe.

 

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Louis Vuitton

Theme: The Jodhpur royalty

What was it about: An all-fuchsia ensembles embellished with mirror work radiated a Rajputana vibe. Flight suits and military bomber jackets accessorised with nifty leather accessories and trunks made it a surreal treat for the eyes.

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Louis Vuitton homme

Dior homme

Theme: Tradition

What was it about: Pin-stripped double-breasted suit, tuxedos in midnight blue and denim suits were the three key ensembles. Blue and yellow separates were stunningly colour-blocked and accessories like the bags had handwritten notes.

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Dior homme

Saint Laurent

Theme: Punk hipster

What was it about: Drainpipes, leather jackets, ponchos and embellished hats – were mixed together in ensembles radiating a Western cinema collage. No one does skinny better than Hedi Slimane and this time too he carved some distinctive looks accessorised with neck scarves.

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Saint Laurent homme

Balmain

Theme: 70s-era skiers

What was it about: Structured motocross jackets embellished with neon beads with almost a military-like precision has been the brand’s mainstay. Tight leather pants were paired with open-toe leather lace-ups. The pairing of a sweatshirt with a beaded jackets was simply stunning.

Balmain homme

Balmain homme

Balmain homme

Balmain homme

Balmain  homme

Balmain homme

Out-tuxed by Dior dandies!

One can’t imagine a Cannes Red Carpet without a sea of dapper tuxedos. There was a time when tuxedos would only be in the tones of gleaming midnight black but today one sees other colours like midnight blue too. Peak lapels, one-button and shawl collars – tuxedos in myriad styles wreak a sartorial assault which equals the intrigue created by frothy, voluminous ballgowns. There’s nothing more chic than a man dressed in a well-cut, form flattering tuxedo and a nifty bow-tie.

Cannes 2014 Red Carpet was eclipsed by dandies from Hollywood’s swish set clad in ultra-chic Dior Homme tuxedos. Here are some snapshots of some of the world’s most photographed and celebrated men in Dior Homme tuxedos who out-tuxed everyone else.

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ROBERT PATTINSON

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DJIMON HOUNSOU

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MADS MIKKELSEN

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KELLAN LUTZ

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LOGAN LERMAN

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GAEL GARCIA BERNAL

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PIERRE NINEY

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LAMBERT WILSON

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RADU MIHAILEANU

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JÉRÉMIE RÉNIER

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BENJAMIN BIOLAY