London Collections: Men more often than not gives a sense of direction to menswear trends. Since its inception, London designers have often shown newer silhouettes, looks and styles.
This time shearling, fur and plaid were the three key elements that eclipsed menswear space in London shows showcased in January. The ensembles saw a lot of deconstruction and patchwork techniques especially at labels like Moschino and Agi & Sam emitting a playful, fun energy. Utilitarian chic is still trending as far as menswear goes – picture an attention-seeking snowboarder or an urbane hippie, who’s not scared to don an artisanal poncho.
Agi & Sam
Take-off point: A clothing range designed at the age of four in Yorkshire.
Highlights: Fun, fearless and fabulous – these words come to mind when one sees these daring fall coats – which were delectably deconstructed and fastened in a helter-skelter manner with Velcro. The exaggerated and vibrant masks made from Lego just added to the child-like allure of the line.
Inspiration: Bombay City Rollers
Highlights: The collection sort of married the East and the West – there were giant shaggy afghans from the East and ponchos from the West. Urbane hippie seemed to be the ultimate spirit. Other high points were – Ombré mohair outerwear, edited bell-bottoms, stars-and-stripes-patched trucker jackets, high-hemmed blousons, printed with garage decals, and patched boiler suits.
Inspiration: a free-spirited thinker with an interest in pataphysics
Highlights: Seventies ruled here – be it the ’70s her- belted brown leather coat, the suede coat with the knit sleeves or the blue corduroy jacket. The chunky floral buttons were definitely the highlights, besides the fringed scarves. The presentation was hosted on a reeking floor of purple rubber chips, the remains of car tires usually employed for gymkhanas.
Vibe: Progressive streetwear
Highlights: Shearling leather jackets, multi-pocketed denim jackets, blouson, cargo pants and shredded denims came with straps which cinched giving an illusion of peplum. Mixed-paint a burst of colour—illustrations by James Davison—emanated on the front of knit polos and sweaters. Grunge yet chic at the same time – the line underscored a daring street style.
Vibe: Winter wonderland
Highlights: Jeremy Scott reimagined a winter wonderland featuring a forest of snow-flecked firs. Knitwear and the shearling coats were deconstructed emitting a psychedelic collage. Picture a snowboarder who enjoys attention. There were fake-fur fanny packs and Moon Boots, some thigh-high, flashed with gold Moschino buckling. Easily the most powerful presentation at LCM so far.