The White Knights
No one combines luxury travel and high fashion like Monisha Jaising. From her interpretation of Soho’s wild party girl to capturing the mood of a destination bridesmaid vacationing in the heart of the romantic Notting Hill to her fitting tribute to the sailing bride in her last outing — Monisha has been penning a rich encyclopedia of jet-set glamour for years now. Champagne, canapes, carats, cruise and couture — all the Cs come together to unleash a glittery fury of oomph, easy chic style and red carpet glam slam. The shy and almost self-effacing designer shared, “It’s inspired by the Arabian sea and the evening lights. I’m hosting a sundowner by the harbour which captures the sunset light.”
A luxury cruise liner docked at the serene Arabian Sea, champagne overflowing and the sunset orange icing the Mumbai skyline all formed the exotic backdrop of the resort czarina Monisha Jaising’s opening Lakme Fashion Week show. The line gloried thanks to all the MJ insignias – Baroque embroidery, mesh beaded blouses, feather accents, cowl drapes, liquid-like metallic shifts, sporty separates and denims.
It was like the designer dug into her own rich archive of bejewelled saris, off-shoulder gowns with dramatic billowing trains and sequinned sheathed dresses and recontextualised them for the legion of her millennial fans. A pale blue sari with a beaded border paired with a burgundy blouse was the high point and so was a grey sari paired with a feather accented blouse. The opening look – a metallic shift layered with a sheer bomber set the tone of the line which was heavy on unapologetic shine-on pieces slashed at the thigh. She added totality to the evening-heavy line by incorporating easy chic pop-toned off-shoulder tops with bow accents pairing with denim shorts and layering va va voom bodysuits with printed skirts. Everything to charm her Pali Hill devotees.
Showstopper: Sonakshi Sinha sashayed in an off-shoulder orange gown
with a dramatic train
Front row: Shweta Bachchan Nanda, Prerna Goel, Haseena Jethmalani,
Shobhaa De, Rukshana Eisa and Rhea Pillai
The romantic hue of pink makes its romantic presence felt like never before in Prefall 2017. From dusty pink to pale versions – the colour is spelling mood exotica this prefall.
J Mendel sent a statement-making fur jacket, Alessandro Michele at Gucci toyed with the shade in a more mitigated avatar in a tiered Victoriana-like gown.
Prabal Gurung, on the other hand, sent out a salmon pink ruffled gown which is bound to have many takers come awards season. Temperley London has combined it with the classic black in their collared and pleated dresses and also presented it in a sequinned, sheathed, shine-on format in the form of a jumpsuit with exaggerated sleeves. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel toyed with the hue by sending out a halter pocketed shimmery gown with a matching knit stoles wrapped around the neck. It’ll be a pink-heavy 2017 and we aren’t complaining!
Bollywood red carpet saw actresses moving out of their comfort zone and opting for gowns with risque slits and cut-work detailing. While the likes of Sonam Kapoor flirted with off-shoulder numbers from Proenza Schouler and Zimmermann, Deepika Padukone toyed with military chic in an olive green Monisha Jaising skirt and a sequinned bustier. Quantico beauty Priyanka Chopra slayed it in statement-making dresses from Prabal Gurung and Sachin and Babi while Alia Bhatt balanced her polished red carpet style with denim-heavy street looks. It was the year of clashing maximal with minimal, sublime with ridiculous and understated with edgy! Mix and match seemed to be the mantra for most B-Town stylists…
Princess diary: Sonam Kapoor
Shine-on glamazon: Katrina Kaif
Katrina Kaif knocks it out of the ballpark in this Khosla Jani off-shoulder gown. Kudos to the actress for moving out of her comfort zone and experimenting with a new look. She’s in excellent shape and the outfit brings out her sexier side.
Glam rock diva: Deepika Padukone
Deepika Padukone opts for this edgy Monisha Jaising number in a sea of gowns and dresses. The military green skirt with a thigh-high cut adds to the femme fatale appeal. The fringed earrings add a touch of softness to the look.
Miss Metallica: Alia Bhatt
Alia Bhatt looks every bit the seductress supreme in this gold mini at designer Manish Malhotra’s 50th birthday bash. The slick centre-parted hair and smokey eyes add to the va va voom vibe.
Ravising in red: Priyanka Chopra
Priyanka Chopra slayed it in this cut-work Prabal Gurung number on the red carpet. The slick side-parted hair and a bold red pout oozed confidence and sexiness.
His Spring 2016 collection had its roots in Nepal. The work of artist Laxman Shreshtha, who Gurung said he grew up studying, became a jacquard on skin-baring evening separates, the orange and yellow Holi powder hues of which formed the show’s warm, lit-from-within palette.
He shares, “I am an avid art follower. I love contemporary arts in America and worldwide and I just love it. That’s one of the thing I hope to get to see. I was just passing by Jehangir Art Gallery and it reminded me of the time. It allowed me to really escape. I am a big art follower whenever I have time, New York is the best place to be when it comes to art.”
“How women dress here – this part of the world, it’s very graceful but there’s whole sensuality to it – what is hidden and what is not and what is revealed. There’s a certain ritualistic ceremonial aspect to dressing up which I love about it. Whether you’re dressing for yourself or dressing for others – there’s beauty to it and time taken to it and I love that. The colours, the textures, everything – it’s a big part of who I’m. It’s my heritage. I grew up in India. It’s a huge part of how I design and how I look at things. For my brand there’s always exoticism, mystery and grace, elegance of it with the practicality of New York – those are the two pillars of the brand which function for us. It has really shaped up who I’m.”
Time and again his collections have gloried thanks to his stunning re-imagining of the Himalayan landscape prints. “It’s my comfort place. where I find my place, for me solitude is the biggest luxury right now. I crave those. The best solitude that I find when I’m up in the mountains. It always takes me back home.”
Nightlife is a big part of who Prabal is. “I enjoy to release my energy and letting it loose, chill, hang out and have fun. Nightlife is a big part of New York. I’m very selective about it now.” Besides, the partying he enjoys following art, working out and meditation.
Transparency rules at Spring Summer 2017
Designers across the board sent out sheer concoctions – be it Louis Vuitton’s long, sheer-yet-discreet dresses or Valentino’s a magical series of handkerchief-hemmed, diaphanous dresses in pinks and sometimes also embroidered with patterns of birds. Bouchra Jarrar at Lanvin injected sexiness into her otherwise pretty and elegant line by punctuating it with sheer, gauzy lace-trimmed black dresses.
At the recently concluded Amazon India Fashion Week, designer Pawan Sachdeva showcased a sheer bomber seen on his showstopper Vidyut Jamwal, designer Aniket Satam flirted with transparency in one of his ensembles which he accented with a cutesy cat accent. Rina Dhaka, Ilk, Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan and Pankaj and Nidhi too showcased sheer concoctions in their Spring Summer 2016 lines.