The low-down on Spring Summer 2017 style spectrum
The rough-and-tumble of the US elections has clearly impacted the ongoing New York Fashion Week in two ways — designers like Prabal Gurung made a political statement with their offerings (he’s one of the many designers, who created a t-shirt for Hillary Clinton’s campaign) and names like Altuzarra sort of mitigated the elections brouhaha with sweet, candied offerings.
While on one hand, there were a lot of masculine elements like striped shirts, gingham blazers and cargo jackets, on the other hand, one saw metallics, floral applique embroideries and asymmetrical ruffles. The ruffled bra seems to be the ‘it’ piece of the season and so are the prairie-like dresses seen across the board.
Diane von Furstenberg
Inspiration: DvF’s iconic 1974 wrap dress
Highlights: All eyes were set on the new chief creative officer Jonathan Saunders, who’s taken over the label and moved to New York from London. A pro at colours and digital prints, this collection was fresh, upbeat and playful. Asymmetry was at the core of this line, seen on bias-cut dresses, shirts cut with flirty sleeves on one side and a contrasting strap on the other. The line had everything for everyone: trench coats in cotton and leather accented with detachable faux fur collar ans clingy knits.
Highlight: Wang is a pro at combining masculine and feminine elements and presenting them with a sporty flourish. This time he took mannish stripes and played with them with knotted crop tops, strappy bralets, drawstring shorts and minis. The sporty pieces were layered and softened with lace accents and cover-ups. A pink sweatshirt with palm prints was paired with lace shorts and a slip crop top was paired with a grey check leggings with zippers. A strappy black bralet paired with a sequinned pastel sarong skirt seen on Kendall Jenner was the highlight of the show.
Inspiration: Gloria Steinem
Highlights: The US elections clearly weighed heavily on Prabal’s mind. He sent out a delicious bias-cut silk number, which had quotes from prominent women printed in black ink. There were also statement tees which came embroidered in the style of the artist Tracey Emin; Susan B. Anthony’s line, “they threw things at me then but they were not roses.”
Besides the politics, there was enough to keep his sex dialogue flowing with metallic one-shoulder dresses, cut-at-the-shoulder numbers with metallic applique embroideries. The show ended with three pantsuits – another reference to the democratic candidate’s sartorial pick.
Inspiration: David Lynch’s film Wild At Heart
Highlights: This was Altuzarra’s sweetest collection till date. A lemon stitched denim python jacket opened the show which was followed by cherry prints, candy stripes and florals. He extrapolated stripes, micro gingham checks and florals to create ruffled dresses slashed at the thigh, and slip dresses belted at the waist with cutesy sashes. He also added cargo jackets, ruffled bra tops and knit dresses.
Inspiration: Works of artist Ugo Rondinone
Highlights: Foil-like metallic shine and vibrant neons made this line bold and arresting. Tulle dresses with three-dimensional embroideries of fluorescent flowers will be the red carpet favourite coming awards season. The show opened with a double breasted pleated coat dress with metallic accent, followed by metallic shifts, floral jacket-skirt combos and sheer blue dresses which had neon orange piping.