Fall Winter 2016 continues to tread on the dark tapestry
The recently concluded Paris Fashion Week turned out to be a season of deafening rumours. Is Hedi Slimane quitting Saint Laurent or has he already quit? Designer Anthony Vaccarello seems to be one of the potent contenders for the big job. Commercially Hedi’s successor has big shoes to fill. Besides, the question mark on Raf Simons’ replacement at Christian Dior has been haunting the chic corridors. If this wasn’t enough then all eyes were set on Balenciaga (it was newly appointed designer Demna Gvasalia’s first collection). Demna married his street style with the house’s hallowed archive and Dior saw Raf’s template and codes being followed. Eighties continue to rule with most designers opting for exaggerated shoulders and making the shapes even more dramatic seen most prominently at Saint Laurent. The Goth undercurrent can’t be overlooked with everyone from Dries Van Noten to Dior to Givenchy opting for dark smokey eyes. Liquid-like slip dresses continue to make their presence felt in our sartorial slipstream, seen at John Galliano, who presented them with tailored outerwear. Here are some of the snapshots from the runway…
Highlights: India is definitely shining in Paris thanks to the talented Rahul Mishra, whose recent fall winter outing was presented with a nuanced street credo. ‘RM’ and ‘street style’ aren’t the two phrases one’s likely to come across in the same sentence but this was designer’s most edgy line. The International Woolmark Prize winner dyed his silks using the traditional Bandhani technique, creating his signature dots which gloried in a delectable interplay of royal blue, black and cream. The softness of the skirts and cape like embroidered scalloped separates was offset by suit jackets and embroidered biker jackets. The Delhi-based designer has firmly entrenched his brand on the global fashion firmament and he isn’t scared to let his freak flag fly high!
Dries Van Noten
Inspiration: A rendezvous between Marchesa Luisa Casati, early-20th-century femme fatale and poet Gabriele D’Annunzio
Highlights: Models sported smokey eyes and sleek side-parted hair and had necks covered with fur chokers. There was an unmistakable aristocratic air about them as they rocked jewel-toned pantsuits and chunky cricket vests. Purple and emerald green were two shades which made their presence felt in the faux fur lined collar, shimmery tea-length skirts. The designer also played with leopard prints, dots and stripes giving them a dreamy, painterly-like feel.
Inspiration: Hindu Mandalas and Egyptian iconography
Highlights: It’s not for nothing that Givenchy’s follower are clubbed under the cult of ‘Tisci’s Tribe. Designer’s penchant for religious insignia and imagery is well known and documented. This time his focus shifted to Egypt and he referenced the Eyes of Horus. Tisci always likes to bleach his models’ eyebrows and give them Goth smokey make-up. The animalistic ensembles added a sinister-like vibe accented by leopard spots and python skin. The leather jackets and boleros stood out thanks to their sharp tailoring.
Vibe: Old world Hollywood glamour
Highlights: After Raf Simon’s departure, all eyes were set of this fall winter offering by studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux and Dior addicts weren’t disappointed. There was a focus on the shoulder which was morphed with an asymmetric drape. A panoply of portrait neckline were seen layering zipped tops and coat dresses were presented with 80s leg-of-mutton sleeves. Sleek side-parted hair and bold dark lips offset the high-waist slit pencil skirts and pointy Mary Janes and lace-up ankle booties.
Inspiration: Street wear
Highlights: The Rugby elements were given a new twist and knits, shirts and jersies were boiled. Distilling everyday street style into high fashion clothing has been designer Demna Gvasalia’s forte. His trademark oversized tailoring was mixed with cheeky sloganeering. Oversized plaid shirts with boxy shoulders, hooded sweatshirts were worn with thigh high boots invoking instant likability.