Resort 17 highlights

Cruise line-up seems to be high on floral prints and applique embroideries…

Most designers seemed to be in a romantic mood as they creates sketches for resort. How else does one explain bright, luscious florals and so much of it – seen at Giambattista Valli, Alexander McQueen and Fausto Puglisi. While Valli’s moodboard was a panoply of many blooms, Sarah Burton at McQueen seemed turned on by British folk art. Fausto’s Italian aesthetic of extravagant maximalism was the talking point at Pitti Uomo, David Koma London presented a streamlined collection of evening dresses, minis and separates which take you from work to the bar. Here’s the lowdown…

Giambattista Valli
Vibe: Romance

Highlights: Soft romantic florals, billowing frothy trains and applique embroideries have been Valli’s mainstay. This time the designer referenced camellias, gardenias, anemones, peonies and lilies of the valley, stunningly realising them in  3-D petal embellishments. There were floor-sweeping empire line numbers with rose prints and Victorian-style lacy high collars – which are all set to become the red carper rage coming awards season.

Alexander McQueen
Inspiration: British folk art and domestic interiors

Highlights: Sarah Burton’s canvas was hand-painted with a soul-searing collage of carnations, yellow roses, peonies, and poppies. She also seemed inspired by British folk art and domestic interiors. Besides the sheer evening gowns with elaborate prints and embroideries, there were double-breasted coat dresses, capes tiered mini dresses belted at the waist. One factor binding the entire line were ruffles appearing all across.

Fausto Puglisi
Vibe: Unapologetic maximalism

Highlights: Fausto’s core aesthetic has always been unapologetic Italian glamour. ‘More is more’ seems to be the mantra here with ornately decorated, vibrant tones and blossming blooms wreaking a multi-sensory assault. Gladiator inspired shoes, asymmetrical mini skirts with knife pleats, sexy bodysuits, embellished denims, warrior prints all screamed – ‘fashion royalty’. Clearly for the woman who enjoys attention and never wants to be in the shadow.

David Koma
Vibe: Minimal, clean and modern

Highlights: Perhaps one of the most wearable resort line rich with bold graphic prints, chevron stripes and metallic accents. Cut-work, noodle straps and zippers running all across made it of-the-moment and youthful. Skater-print crop tops, mini shifts, skirts slashed at the thighs and colour blocked number said – a closet which takes you from an afternoon high tea to an evening of fun and drama.

Déjà vu diary

Alexander McQueen FW16

Erdem SS 16

Last season London brand Erdem made quite a splash with it’s prairie-inspired transparent dresses in gray chiffon with embroidered flowers. This season at Alexander McQueen, designer Sarah Burton presented a slew of soft romantic dresses with butterflies fluttering all over. The two outfits which were inspired by different elements look quite strikingly similar.

Revisiting Noir

 Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men 

 

A broody, moody, melancholic and subversive themed-fashion has been an integral part of the brand Alexander McQueen’s DNA. When you think of its menswear, two thinks come to mind – Goth inspired hair and kilts. And these two formed the heart of Sarah Burton’s line for London Collections: Men showing. A phalanx of McQueen men swaggered wearing double breasted plaid over coats and suits. These rebellious dandies accessorised their hair with crow feathers which sometimes covered their eyes and reach their perfectly chiselled cheek bones. The show was staged in the theme appropriate Welsh Chapel. The distinctive feel of the collection can be summed up into monochromes, double breasted tailoring with a few pieces in British plaid, tartans, blocks and knits in geometric shapes like rhombus. 

 

The last few drool-worthy pieces clearly stood out thanks to the gold accents on the shirt collars and lapels – perhaps a hipster’s perfect bet for the night of Punk gala at Met.